Comptech SS Header - Start To Finish

[2005 TSX]

*** Introduction / Background ***
A few months ago I bough a Comptech Stainless Steel Header (before Comptech "went out of business" for a few weeks). I never had the time, tools, or space to install the header though...until today.

I worked on my previous car, a 2001 Acura Integra GS-R (http://www.honda-tech.com/garage?cmd=viewcar&id=818), and modified it with some mild performance parts. Needless to say, if I have the time, tools, and garage space, then most of my car projects are taken care of by me. So I have some, but limited, experience working on my cars. I am pretty much a newbie of a "mechanic" though as considered by most gearheads.



*** Reasons For My Purchase ***
To begin with, I bought this header for a few reasons:

1. Overall quality/craftmanship - the overall build quality of the header is absolutely flawless. Very impressive when compared to most after-market parts made by other companies.

2. Perfect fitment - you can't ask for much better fitment than this header. It practically looks like the car came from the factory with this header.

3. TIG welded - when compared to other headers that are out on the market, the TIG welds are very clean and impressive. No mistakes in the welds at all.

4. Stainless Steel - When looking for a header that is going to last, stainless steel is the way to go. This header fits that requirement. Not a flaw in the suface of this header.

5. CARB E.O. certified - For me, this is a GIANT requirement. Why? When you live in California, you need your aftermarket parts to pass a visual inspection by the smog inspector. No E.O., no go for me.

6. Repeat buyer - I previously bought a Comptech header for my Integra GS-R, so it was without a doubt that I would buy from the same manufacturer again.

7. Price - The price for most people is in the mid-high/high range. There are other headers that cost more and that cost less. The ones that cost more usually are race header or delete the catalytic converter (again a big no-no in California) and are not E.O. certified. The ones that cost less, well...you get what you pay for.

8. Performance - while not the highest performing header on the market, it still meets the needs of a mild street tuned engine, while remaining legal and CARB E.O. certified here in California.



*** Current Car Modifications ***
Comptech 22mm Rear Sway Bar
Comptech Titanium Shock Tower Brace Bar
Injen Cold Air Intake With MR technology



*** Removal And Installation ***
Removal of the stock header unit was probably the most difficult part of the whole process. The nuts and bolts holding the face of the header to the exhaust side of the engine block were put on extremely tight from the factory. And the 3 lock nuts that attach the rear of the header to the catalytic converter were beginning to rust.

Tools that I used:
- 12mm, 3/8" socket
- 3/8" ratchet
- 14mm, 1/2"socket
- 1/2" ratchet
- 1/2" breaker bar
- 1/2 ton car jack with high lift
- latex/nitrile gloves
- liquid wrench

The header removal was pretty straight forward. Any stubborn bolts or nuts that I may have encountered on the stock header were blasted/soaked with Liquid Wrench spray.

The instructions say to remove any strut bar that may be in the way. I currently have the Comptech Titanium Shock Tower Brace Bar. This bar provided enough cleanance to the nuts and bolts that held the header to the rear of the engine block. For those that are installing the header and currently have the stock engine brace bar, I would recommend removing the bar before you install the header. It will help avoid any headaches and misery when trying to gain access to the nuts and bolts that hold the header to the rear of the ening block.

My simplified instructions are...
1. Remove heat shield (held on by 3 x 12mm bolts) and let the shield fall into the empty space behind the header.
2. Remove the air/fuel ratio sensor. Once removed, carefully tuck this sensor out of the way so as to avoid damage.
3. Remove all 8 x 14mm nuts and bolts from the header and catalytic converter.
4. Remove "L" bracket that holds the header to the engine.
5. Jack car up as high as the jack will go. Remove old header out of the bottom of the car, and install new header in it's place. If you do not want fingerprints burned onto the header, be sure to use a fresh pair of gloves free of oils and solvents when handling the new header.
6. Make sure that the old header gasket (goes in between the header and engine block), is still in tact and has not fallen off. This gasket can be reused as long as it is undamaged. If you prefer, you can buy a new gasket. There is a right way, and a wrong way to install the gasket. Do not force it if the gasket does not fit correctly.
7. Remember to install the provided gasket (metal O-ring) that goes between the header and the catalytic converter.
8. Install all nuts and bolts loosely. Also install rubber hanger onto the header.
9. Tighten all nuts and bolts.
10. Ensure that there are no gaps between the surfaces of the header/engine/catalytic converter.
11. Once all bolts are tightened as humanly possibly, reinstall air/fuel ratio sensor.
12. If you want a nice, pretty looking header, wipe down the header before turning on the car and allowing the header to cook to a nice golden brown color. If you don't care about stains, smudges, and fingerprints, skip this step.
13. Turn on car and listen for exhaust leaks.
14. If you are satisfied with the results, congratulations, you are now finished.

Things that you won't need/use after the header install:
- stock heat shield
- stock "L" bracket

Total installation time with hand tools:
About 3 hours at a slow pace.



*** Overall Results ***
Overall I am really happy with the entire project. The installation was pretty straight forward. The difference in power is noticeable for me. The slight hesitation (lag) at lower RPMs on my car has improved. Throttle response has improved. And overall engine power seems to be better throughout the powerband. Now I am just waiting to install the Hondata reflash. The sound of the engine hardly changed from when I just had the intake. Although, my brother says the car is really loud...louder than his 8th gen Si.

If anyone is hesitant about installing a Comptech Header, don't wait any longer. If you got it, install it. It's well worth it.

I will have pictures of the finished product in a few days...because

And for those that have said that theoretically you should see better gas mileage with an intake and header installed...I'll report back in a few weeks. I will be taking a long anniversary trip with my wife and I will see what kind of gas mileage I can accomplish. So far my best is 34-35 m.p.g in stock form.

Any questions? Please feel free to ask!

[chaRz]

amazing write up. i appreciate threads like this.. thanks buddy

[tsxd23]

I have the same header for a few months now and it's great. My gas milage did increase and you do feel more power, nothing crazy but you do notice more power. Best of luck with it.

[Spoony]

I have the same header too.I feel more Power by 2000RPM..but next month, i make an Dyno run.

[matiasneto]

is the famous comptech rattle still there

[lcrazyaznl]

Yup its still there on mine, but it something i can deal with, it lets the car breath really, just accel on to the highway is a doozey =)

[pcdawg]

Originally Posted by matiasneto

is the famous comptech rattle still there

My rattle went away after a year becuase i replaced the rubber hanger mounting peice. It came back a couple months ago. But for me it doesnt rattle all the time. It just at random times and doesnt happen daily. I believe that it rattles since its one piece and there's no place on the header where its secured so that its held on tight thus the rattle.

It doesnt really bother me and my wife didnt ask me about it since she dosent know i changed that LOL

[chuson]

Nice write up.

[2005 TSX]

Originally Posted by matiasneto

is the famous comptech rattle still there

Mine is really apparent when the Air Conditioning is on, but other than than that, the rattle is not that bad.

I was thinking of finding someone that could do some welding and fit the old "L" bracket from the old header to the new header.

If that wouldn't work, then maybe fabricate some part that would fit onto the header where the old "L" bracket used to be.