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Old 03-30-2008, 03:06 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Question DC header no flex pipe

I have a version 1 DC header with RT cat and the flex was bad. After putting in another flex it continued to buzz. Now with just a test pipe (no flex) the gaskets began to leak at the primary and secondary connection from vibrations. Does anyone have any suggestions on how to get rid of this buzzing noise? Thanks
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Old 03-30-2008, 06:08 AM   #2 (permalink)
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If you do replace the flex, be sure to replace it with double-braided flex pipe. Some people have installed something like this with no issues:

http://cgi.ebay.ca/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?...MEWA:IT&ih=009

Can't confirm if that's the correct size, but you want a double-braid/inner-weave flex pipe.
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Old 03-30-2008, 03:23 PM   #3 (permalink)
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The size is correct, but how do you know they are double-braid/inner-weave?

I'm going to HotRodScott this coming week to chop my flexpipe and replace a new one. Not sure if I should order online, or use his.
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Old 03-31-2008, 02:18 PM   #4 (permalink)
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im removing my headers at idle they shake violently causing a squeaky and loud rattle
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Old 03-31-2008, 04:36 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by raheel616
im removing my headers at idle they shake violently causing a squeaky and loud rattle
Really? My DC Header (ver 2.) never shake @ Idle, no squeaky sound of loud rattle, I thought they should only happens on Comptech Header. I'm going to replace the flexpipe soon and get rid of those hissing sound.
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Old 03-31-2008, 05:27 PM   #6 (permalink)
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the ebay linked flex pipe is 6" of flex pipe & 2" steel pipe at each end. Should work for the TS & DCsports headers. The original pipe from DC and TS is short, thus the cracking. for less than $30 shipped it is worth a try.
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Old 04-01-2008, 03:50 PM   #7 (permalink)
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i just found out yesterday that the rattle with the squeaky noise was from the heatshield on the cat, it apparently cracked due to the vibrations from being at idle in gear
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Old 04-01-2008, 06:33 PM   #8 (permalink)
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How do you know if you have the first or second make of the DC headers.. is there something that you can use to decifer ? Cause i bought one from a coompany but not sure which version it is. Any help would be great .. Im installing it tomorrow and don't know if I should bothere gettnig it welded.
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Old 04-01-2008, 06:48 PM   #9 (permalink)
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I can conclude that ANY version of DC header should get a new weld flexpipe, unless you plan to change soon.

The easiest way to find out if you have V.2 is the manufacture date; anything after Mar/April 06 is the newer one.

Or, compare your flexpipe to the V.1 online, you will spot the differences near the welding of flexpipe.
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Old 04-01-2008, 07:07 PM   #10 (permalink)
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but either way you think that I should get it welded anyways ?
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Old 04-01-2008, 07:18 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shady_ TSX
but either way you think that I should get it welded anyways ?
Better to get it done now that its not on ur car. The quality of the DC is not as good as the comptech as it is ceramic but with it being welded, will make it last longer.
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Old 04-01-2008, 07:29 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Alright sounds like a plan and the welding should be done inside the piece with the flex pipe right ?
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Old 04-01-2008, 07:42 PM   #13 (permalink)
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BTW Chuson, what Weds rims do you have ? And where did you go to get them ?
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Old 04-01-2008, 07:48 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shady_ TSX
Alright sounds like a plan and the welding should be done inside the piece with the flex pipe right ?
There's 2 type of weld.

Tad weld - Re-inforce the original weld and use the same flexpipe.

Re-Weld - Chop the existing flexpipe & runner to replace a stronger one.

I got my WEDs off Tony (infamous206) on this forum. You can also order it thru rims shop.
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Old 04-02-2008, 12:45 AM   #15 (permalink)
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I guess I didn't know you could get a stronger flex pipe. If that is the case then you don't expect any hissing our buzzing out of a double braided flex? Thanks guys
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