|
|
Welcome to TSXClub.com.
You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, at no cost, you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, join TSXClub.com today!
|
04-14-2009, 10:15 AM
|
#1 (permalink)
|
|
reflash before i die plz
|
RRC intake manifold
so there was some discussion over at a-zine about the RRC intake manifold, but since i'm bored and wanted to know more info about it, i'd figure i'd just bring it up over here.
here's a link to the honda japan page for the white paper and some spec comparisons vs. the DC5 IM: LINK
so this seems like a direct bolt-on. everything i've read indicates it's for DBW, i think it has the same diameter opening as the 06+ TSX's (64mm).
would the RRC IM add anything to our cars? i'm not an expert in this stuff, and everything i've read seems to indicate that that RBC IM is better for higher-revving cars and top-end gains, and the stock TSX IM is better for low-to-mid-range torque. so being that this is coming off a civic type-R in japan, maybe it's not ideal? i can't seem to find specs on the stock TSX IM (ie. runner length, diameter, volume/amount of air pushed through) to make a comparison.
of course, a dyno would probably answer the question. part costs like $350 w/o shipping on some sites.
|
|
|
04-14-2009, 10:30 AM
|
#2 (permalink)
|
|
Registered Member
|
from what i've herd/read it will only benifit if your reving high like 8k and up..
but im not expert either just going on what i've read since i was looking into this as well, but im not gonna build my motor so it seems useless for me at least..
|
|
|
04-14-2009, 11:32 AM
|
#6 (permalink)
|
|
reflash before i die plz
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by spoonfed
I saw that same side by side. What we need is a side by side of ours (RBB) and the RRC.
|
LOL. my bad, i misread your post. all the R's and B's threw me off.
yeah. a side-by-side vs. ours would be good.
|
|
|
04-14-2009, 11:40 AM
|
#7 (permalink)
|
|
Not JDM
|
The RBC and RRC are similar manifold. Basically they were designed for the motor that it was to be bolted on to...
comparison:
Civic Si
197 bhp
139 ft/lbf
11.0:1
Redline: 8000 rpm
vs
Civic Type R
11.7:1
222 bhp
158 ft/lbf
Redline: 8600 rpm
HUGE torque difference
for those of you who do know, more air = more power
The RBC would be better for our K24 motors. we would loose a lot of bottom end with the RRC. plus you can get the RBC for half the price
__________________
"Be who you are and say what you feel because those who mind don't matter and those who matter don't mind.”
-Dr. Seuss
*****************************************
Your friends will tell you your faults, Your enemies will hide them.
*****************************************
Don't let the opinions of the average man sway you. Dream, and he thinks you're crazy. Succeed, and he thinks you're lucky. Acquire wealth, and he thinks you're greedy. Pay no attention. He simply doesn't understand.
Robert G. Allen
|
|
|
04-14-2009, 12:33 PM
|
#8 (permalink)
|
|
reflash before i die plz
|
i know more air = more power.
it's just that my impression of the RBC based on what i read was always gain more top, lose some bottom. and i don't want to lose and low/mid considering that's where our car needs the most help.
|
|
|
04-14-2009, 07:38 PM
|
#9 (permalink)
|
 Administrator General Operations
Location: 33.87°S 151.21°E
My Ride: TOTM November 04 ホンダ CL9 アコード B-92P
|
The idea of bolting on a K20a intake manifold (plenum) onto a K24a has been around since 2003. I don't agree that this is a true improvement modification for the CL9 as the CL9 has a lower RPM rev range and is ideally designed for more low to mid range torque and power gains.
The K24a has a completely different tuning and output perspective vs. the K20a. One has stronger torque for general driveability in all conditions while the other is a high revving answer to Honda's current generation of high RPM, high BHP output.
With Honda engines since the blueprint of DOHC VTEC engines were designed, they were always compensating torque to attain the high RPM bhp output. In reality, this also translates to poor torque and suffered general driveability. As every tuner will put it, it's okay in a competitive environment (in this scenario, you are constantly sitting inside the VTEC powerband and have no problems extracting power from the engine to the wheels efficiently) but fail to mention the other part.
Retaining the K24a intake manifold for the torque advantage is a better use in the CL9 because the chassis is heavier than a DC5 and EP3. Torque is used to compensate the heavier weight, and ultimately, the K24a isn't a high revving engine, which negates any gains when using a K20a tuning concept on a K24a.
|
|
|
04-14-2009, 08:43 PM
|
#10 (permalink)
|
|
Not A MOD3RATOR
My Ride: 2005 Acura TSX 5AT
|
It will be great for those who's planning to get K-Pro, where you can take advantage its design for high rpm (7500-9000rpm range).
__________________
PERFORMANCE: Injen l DC Sports l Magnaflow l Greddy l UR l Sun Automobile l P2R l BPi l 06 IM+TB @ 71mm l
HANDLING: Cusco l Progress l Eibach l BuddyClub l
BRAKE: RacingBrake l Hawks l Motul
EXTERIOR: MUGEN l WEDS l Yokohama
|
|
|
04-14-2009, 10:51 PM
|
#11 (permalink)
|
|
Not JDM
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by xjohnkdoex
i know more air = more power.
it's just that my impression of the RBC based on what i read was always gain more top, lose some bottom. and i don't want to lose and low/mid considering that's where our car needs the most help.
|
just compare our Intake manifold to the RBC...
ours has relatively skinnier, long intake runners... the RBC is a lot shorter.
Ours is built for torque as that is what our cars required, which is what noel mentioned, and the RBC is for high revving motors... ex Civic SI... and it would work a lot better if Kpro was involved in the equation as you would be able to tune the power out of the motor
|
|
|
04-14-2009, 11:09 PM
|
#12 (permalink)
|
 Administrator General Operations
Location: 33.87°S 151.21°E
My Ride: TOTM November 04 ホンダ CL9 アコード B-92P
|
ECU tuned to run 9000 RPMs isn't a problem. However, the engine does require some fairly extensive work to ensure it can produce power, prevent valve float and maintain longevity.
Titanium valve springs.
Titanium retainers.
Higher compression gasket.
More lumpy cams.
Uprated pistons.
Then, it'd be a different story altogether. Which I believe owners who are willing to go so far will choose the easier route of go the bolt-on CTSC route.
|
|
|
04-15-2009, 12:04 AM
|
#13 (permalink)
|
|
Donating member
|
^ RBC maybe helpful to those who have aftermarket cams which are thirstier for air. K24 is simply not meant to be revved past 8000 rpms
|
|
|
04-15-2009, 06:23 AM
|
#14 (permalink)
|
|
Hayai
Location: Sandwich Islands
|
RBC Manifold vs RRC Manifold - K20A.org .:. The K Series Source . Honda / Acura K20a k24a Engine Forum
And one more thing regarding revving the K24 to 9k.
At 7900 rpm the K20 has a piston speed of 4464 feet per minute (fpm). Thanks to its long stroke, the K24 comes close to that, running at 4225 fpm at 6500 rpm. By the time you've spun your K24 up to just 6900 rpm, you're already at 4485 fpm, and at 7900 rpm, you're at a crazy 5135 fpm. For comparison, even the hyperkinetic F20 with 9000 rpm doesn't exceed 5000 fpm. The B18 only reaches 4573 fpm.
|
|
|
04-15-2009, 07:47 AM
|
#15 (permalink)
|
|
Metal Head
My Ride: 2004 TSX 6SPD CGP & 2008 FA5 RR
|
^wow, that's some good info
__________________
04 CGP 6spd MT
ENGINE: Hondata Reflash, CT-E Header, RT high flow cat, Apexi WS2 Exhaust, Comptech Ice Box, UR Pulley Kit, P2R TB Spacer/Gaskets, Hondata I.M. Gasket, Mugen oil cap, Mugen Radiator Cap, Mugen Resevoir covers, Mugen Thermo-Switch, JDM Honda Valve cover/Plug cover, Buddy Club Voltage Stabilizer/Grounding Kit,
SUSPENSION: Neuspeed/Koni Shocks, Neuspeed Sport Springs, Neuspeed Front Upper Strut Bar, Cusco Type1 Brace, Progress RSB, Ingalls Camber/Toe Kit
WHEELS/TIRES: Mugen GP 18x7.5 +48 w/15mm spacers w/Hankook Ventus V12 EVO 225/40/18 2nd set:Gram Lights 57Optimise 18x7.5 w/Yokohama S-Drives 225/40/18, Project Kics R40 Neo Chro Lugs
BRAKES: Axxis Ultimates Pads F&R, Powerslot Rotors, Stoptech SS Brake Lines
INTERIOR: Comptech Short Shifter, Skunk2 Shift Knob, Ultimate Pedals Custom Gas/Brake/Clutch Pedals, Luminar Tint, USA Spec iPod Module, Blue LED footwell lighting
EXTERIOR: Honda 04 JDM Headlights w/Philips 85122CM 5000K bulbs, Mugen Grill, Mugen Ventilated Visors, Acura A-Spec Lip Kit, OEM Fog Lights w/3000K HID Conversion Kit, CGP M3 Rear Lip Spoiler
|
|
|
| Thread Tools |
|
|
| Display Modes |
Linear Mode
|
Posting Rules
|
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts
HTML code is On
|
|
|
All times are GMT -4. The time now is 08:37 AM.
|